Automotive panels feature various lines—straight (doors), curved (fenders), and complex (bumpers). Here’s how to recreate them during body filler application:
Surface Leveling: Ensure the area is perfectly flat before shaping lines; uneven surfaces will distort the result.
Two Methods:
Masking Tape Technique (Ideal for long/straight lines):
Apply tape below the target line, then spread filler above it.
Scrape filler left-to-right, leaving extra material at the taped edge.
Remove tape to reveal a half-formed line. Repeat on the upper side to complete the edge.
For sharper definition, repeat 2–3 times (usually twice suffices).
Works for curved fender lines but requires more precision.
Freehand with Filler Knife (Short lines only):
Apply filler to one side of the line and scrape against the opposite edge.
Note: Human hands can’t maintain perfect straightness over long spans.
Avoid thinning your knives by sanding off hardened filler. Instead:
Heat Method: Use a heat gun or plastic welder until filler bubbles, then scrape off with a second knife.
Removes even thick buildup instantly.
Mixing Ratio: Primer : Thinner = 1:0.8–1 (never exceed 1:1).
Avoid "Thinner+Water" mixes—they cause bubbling.
Application: Spray evenly (no runs, orange peel, or rough texture).
Limitation: Poor at hiding filler seams/pinholes—requires flawless substrate.
Sanding: Wet-sand with 800-grit post-drying.
Mixing: Primer : Hardener = 2:1 (+ thinner if needed; add accelerator for faster curing).
Drying: 3 hrs air-dry or 30 mins with heat lamp (per panel).
Sanding: Start with 400-grit dry sanding, finish with 800-grit wet sanding.
Advantage: Better pinhole coverage; use glazing putty for remaining imperfections.
Assess Depth:
Superficial (clear/base coat only): Sand smooth and repaint.
Deep (exposed metal):
Grind with 180-grit until bare metal is visible.
Apply metal filler if needed, then feather edges.
Prime and paint.
Ensure surfaces are contaminant-free before priming:
Oil/Grease: Wipe with solvent (thinner or degreaser).
Adhesive Residue: Scrape bulk with a knife, then use gasoline or adhesive remover.
Overspray:
Small areas: Thinner.
Large areas: Dry-sand.
Pro Tip:
Thinner/diluent removes paint residues.
Gasoline dissolves adhesives/waxes.
Automotive panels feature various lines—straight (doors), curved (fenders), and complex (bumpers). Here’s how to recreate them during body filler application:
Surface Leveling: Ensure the area is perfectly flat before shaping lines; uneven surfaces will distort the result.
Two Methods:
Masking Tape Technique (Ideal for long/straight lines):
Apply tape below the target line, then spread filler above it.
Scrape filler left-to-right, leaving extra material at the taped edge.
Remove tape to reveal a half-formed line. Repeat on the upper side to complete the edge.
For sharper definition, repeat 2–3 times (usually twice suffices).
Works for curved fender lines but requires more precision.
Freehand with Filler Knife (Short lines only):
Apply filler to one side of the line and scrape against the opposite edge.
Note: Human hands can’t maintain perfect straightness over long spans.
Avoid thinning your knives by sanding off hardened filler. Instead:
Heat Method: Use a heat gun or plastic welder until filler bubbles, then scrape off with a second knife.
Removes even thick buildup instantly.
Mixing Ratio: Primer : Thinner = 1:0.8–1 (never exceed 1:1).
Avoid "Thinner+Water" mixes—they cause bubbling.
Application: Spray evenly (no runs, orange peel, or rough texture).
Limitation: Poor at hiding filler seams/pinholes—requires flawless substrate.
Sanding: Wet-sand with 800-grit post-drying.
Mixing: Primer : Hardener = 2:1 (+ thinner if needed; add accelerator for faster curing).
Drying: 3 hrs air-dry or 30 mins with heat lamp (per panel).
Sanding: Start with 400-grit dry sanding, finish with 800-grit wet sanding.
Advantage: Better pinhole coverage; use glazing putty for remaining imperfections.
Assess Depth:
Superficial (clear/base coat only): Sand smooth and repaint.
Deep (exposed metal):
Grind with 180-grit until bare metal is visible.
Apply metal filler if needed, then feather edges.
Prime and paint.
Ensure surfaces are contaminant-free before priming:
Oil/Grease: Wipe with solvent (thinner or degreaser).
Adhesive Residue: Scrape bulk with a knife, then use gasoline or adhesive remover.
Overspray:
Small areas: Thinner.
Large areas: Dry-sand.
Pro Tip:
Thinner/diluent removes paint residues.
Gasoline dissolves adhesives/waxes.